
Bangrak Beach at Sunrise, Noon and Sunset
The same stretch of sand is three different places depending on when you walk it. A case for the hour almost nobody uses.
Notes on the island and the neighbourhood, and what to know before you visit.

The same stretch of sand is three different places depending on when you walk it. A case for the hour almost nobody uses.

The pier at the end of the beach is a working ferry terminal, not a viewpoint. What leaves from it, what does not, and the mistake people make booking it.

Three areas on the same stretch of coast, fifteen minutes apart, and completely different trips. An honest comparison from people who live in one of them.

Twenty minutes, no entry fee, and one decision that changes the whole visit. What to expect at Wat Phra Yai, and the temple a few minutes away that most people skip.

The wet months are the ones everyone avoids and the ones the island is arguably at its best. What the rain is actually like, and who should come anyway.

You will be told you need a scooter. You do not, if you choose where you stay carefully. What the alternatives actually cost, and where they fall down.

The corner of Koh Samui most guides drive through on the way to somewhere else. Three areas, two temples, one genuinely good small beach, and very few people.

Samui airport is unusually pleasant and unusually close to Bangrak. What to do with a late arrival, an early departure, or the six hours between checkout and your flight.

The Bangrak beach road has a lot of restaurants and the quality is uneven. Here is what we would actually send a friend to, and what to order when they get there.

Bangrak is not the island's best swimming beach, and most guides will not tell you that. Here is what it is actually good for, from someone who works here every day.

A lot of what you will read about cannabis in Thailand is out of date or simply wrong. Here is the current position, in plain language, from a licensed dispensary.

Samui is an easy island to be alone on and a surprisingly hard one to make friends on. If you are here for more than a fortnight, this is the thing nobody warns you about.

Most of Koh Samui shuts at ten. If you are awake after that and you do not want a nightclub, the island gets narrow fast. Here is what is actually open.

Samui is a harder place to work from than Chiang Mai or Bangkok, and better than either at some things. Where to actually get work done, and what nobody tells you first.
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